RV Living · Systems and upkeep

RV Systems

The systems that make an RV a home, explained in plain terms for people who live in one for weeks or months at a time. Shore power and amperage, generator etiquette and carbon monoxide, solar and batteries, water and holding tanks, propane, and a season-by-season maintenance plan from the roof seals to the wheel bearings.

⏱ 15 min readLevel: Beginner and upUpdated November 2026

A small house on wheels

An RV packs most of a house’s systems into a small space that gets driven down bumpy roads, baked in the sun and frozen in winter. When you use it for a weekend, a small problem can wait until you get home. When you live in it, every system matters every day.

Most RVs have two electrical systems working together:

120-volt AC, like a house, for outlets, the microwave, air conditioner and other larger appliances. It comes from shore power, a generator or an inverter.
12-volt DC, from the house batteries, for lights, the water pump, the furnace fan, fans, alarms and controls. A converter or charger keeps the batteries charged when you’re plugged in.

Add a fresh water system, two or three holding tanks and a propane system, and you have everything this page covers. The Canadian standards for RVs are the CSA Z240 RV series, whose parts cover vehicle, plumbing, propane and electrical requirements; the electrical part is based on the Canadian Electrical Code. Your RV’s own manuals are the final word on how its systems work. For towing, hitching and levelling, see Trailer and RV camping.

Too little weight on the tongue, often from a heavy load or rack at the back of the trailer, is a common cause of sway. Your vehicle, hitch and trailer manuals give the exact limits. Source: U.S. National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, Towing a Trailer: Being Smart and Safe (tongue weight usually 10 to 15% of loaded trailer weight); vehicle owner’s manuals.

Shore power

Shore power is the campground’s electricity, from the pedestal on your site. Its amperage limits how much you can run at once.

Service	What it is	Roughly how much power	In practice
15 amp	An ordinary household-style outlet at 120 volts.	About 1,800 watts in total (15 amps × 120 volts).	Lights, the fridge and charging, plus one high-draw appliance at a time. Not enough for most air conditioners plus anything else.
30 amp	A 120-volt RV outlet with three prongs.	About 3,600 watts (30 × 120).	Common on many RVs. You can run the air conditioner, or an electric heater, plus some other loads, but not everything at once.
50 amp	A four-prong outlet with two separate 120-volt supplies of 50 amps each.	About 12,000 watts (2 × 50 × 120).	Larger RVs with two air conditioners, residential appliances and more. Plenty, if the campground’s supply keeps up.

Those numbers are the most the breaker allows. Running close to the limit for long periods heats wires and connections, so leave yourself some room.

Living on shore power

Know the high-draw appliances: air conditioner, electric space heater, electric water heater element, microwave, kettle, coffee maker, toaster, hair dryer and induction cooktop. Run them one or two at a time on a 30-amp site.
Turn the pedestal breaker off before plugging in or unplugging.
Adapters let you plug in, but they don’t create more power. A 30-amp RV on a 15-amp outlet has 15 amps to work with.
Protect the RV with a surge protector or an electrical management system that cuts power on low or high voltage. On a busy weekend or a hot day, campground voltage can sag, which is hard on air conditioners and electronics.
Look after the cord and plug. A loose, burnt or discoloured plug or outlet is a fire risk. Replace damaged parts and tell the campground about damaged pedestals. If you ever feel a tingle touching the RV’s door, steps or body, keep everyone away from it, turn off the pedestal breaker without touching the RV, and have it checked before plugging in again.
Use heavy-duty cords rated for the load and for outdoor use, as short as possible. Never daisy-chain household extension cords.
Leave electrical work inside the RV to a qualified technician or electrician.

From our weather station

Thunderstorms bring power surges and outages. When the forecast shows storms, think about unplugging sensitive electronics. Environment and Climate Change Canada notes that a steel or aluminum RV can still be affected by lightning when it’s plugged into shore power. See lightning.

Generators: etiquette and carbon monoxide

A generator gives you 120-volt power where there’s no pedestal. It’s also noisy, smelly and, used carelessly, deadly.

Carbon monoxide comes first

Distance. Health Canada says to operate a generator at least 6 m (20 feet) from buildings and to point the exhaust away from open windows and doors. Apply the same thinking to your RV and your neighbours’ RVs.
Never inside, never underneath. Never run a portable generator inside the RV, in a truck bed under a closed canopy, in a garage, or under an awning or skirting.
Built-in generators in motorhomes and some fifth wheels exhaust through a pipe. Make sure the exhaust is never blocked by snow, a snowbank, skirting or a wall, and that it isn’t blowing toward an open window, yours or a neighbour’s.
A working CO alarm inside the RV is essential whenever a generator is running nearby. See the alarms.

Generator etiquette

Alberta Parks’ generator rules are a good model for any campground:

Someone must be at the site whenever the generator is running.
The exhaust must not point toward a neighbouring site or unit.
Generators aren’t allowed on powered sites, except during a power outage for someone who needs power for medical equipment such as a CPAP machine.
Alberta Parks recommends generators not exceed 60 decibels, and suggests quieter inverter-type generators where possible.
Campgrounds commonly limit the hours generators may run. Check what’s posted.

Private and municipal campgrounds set their own rules. Read them, and when in doubt, ask your neighbours how the noise is reaching them.

Fuel

Let the generator cool before refuelling, and refuel outdoors.
Store fuel in approved containers, outside the living space, away from heat and children.

Solar and batteries

Batteries store power; solar panels, shore power, a generator or the tow vehicle put it back. Together they let you live without a pedestal for longer, and quietly.

House batteries in plain terms

Capacity is measured in amp-hours. A bigger bank lasts longer between charges.
Lead-acid batteries (flooded or sealed types) are common and less costly up front. They’re heavy, and they last much longer if you don’t run them down too far. Flooded batteries need their water level checked and must be charged in a ventilated space.
Lithium batteries (in RVs, usually lithium iron phosphate) are lighter and can be used more deeply, but cost more up front. Many can’t be charged safely below freezing unless they have built-in heating or protection. Follow the maker’s charging temperature limits; this matters a great deal in our winters.
Chargers and converters must suit the battery type. Changing battery types often means changing chargers and settings too.
Cold weakens batteries. Expect less capacity in winter, just when the furnace fan needs more.

Solar

Panels on the roof or on a portable stand turn sunlight into DC power for the 12-volt batteries. Portable panels can sit in the sun while the RV is in the shade.
A charge controller sits between the panels and the batteries so they’re charged correctly.
An inverter turns 12-volt battery power into 120-volt household power for outlets. A large inverter can drain batteries quickly.
Southern Alberta is sunny, with about 2,500 hours of sunshine a year, but winter days are short and the sun is low. A system that runs everything in July may struggle in December, especially with snow on the panels.
Shade and dust both cut output. Keep panels clean and clear.

Battery banks store a lot of energy. A short circuit can start a fire. Every system needs correct fuses, properly sized cables and secure mounting. Have larger systems designed and installed by a qualified technician, and follow the battery maker’s instructions on charging, ventilation and storage.

What it means for you: before you buy panels and batteries, list what you actually use in a day and for how long. Many seasonal-site RVers on a powered site need very little solar. Someone who camps without services needs much more. Don’t buy for the sales pitch; buy for your list.

Water and tanks

Most RVs have three tanks: fresh water, grey water (from sinks and shower) and black water (from the toilet). Some have more than one grey tank.

Fresh water

Use a drinking-water hose kept only for that, with a pressure regulator at the tap.
Know the source. Ask whether the campground’s water is treated drinking water. If it isn’t, bring drinking water from town.
Sanitize the fresh water system at least once a season, and after it sits, following your manual.
Water is heavy. About 1 kg per litre. A full fresh tank adds a lot of weight; travel with it partly full or empty if you’ll have water at your destination. See the weight numbers.
Conserve when you aren’t hooked up: short showers, a basin for dishes, and a cup for brushing teeth.

Grey and black tanks

Black first, then grey, when you dump, so the grey water rinses the hose.
Keep the black valve closed until the tank is at least partly full, even with a sewer hook-up, so solids flush out. Use plenty of water.
Tank sensors can be wrong. Residue on the sensors can make a tank read full or empty when it isn’t. Learn how long your tanks last.
Wear disposable gloves, and keep the sewer hose and fittings separate from everything else.
Never empty tanks on the ground. On Alberta’s public land, the rules say to take waste home or to a dump station, and campgrounds expect the same.

Hook-up basics, including pressure regulators and filters, are on Trailer and RV camping. Winter water is covered on Four-season RV living.

Propane

Propane usually runs the furnace, the water heater, the stove and often the fridge. For people living in an RV, it’s the fuel that matters most in spring, fall and winter.

From Gary

Gary’s fifth wheel has an onboard propane generator, and he loves having it. When it wouldn’t run, it wasn’t the tanks or anything else he suspected: it was the hose between the valve and the tank. Once that was replaced, it was “all good to go.” Still fairly new to a fifth wheel like this, he says troubleshooting is “a process of elimination,” and he’s making progress.

Propane is heavier than air. Health Canada notes that leaked propane can sit in low areas. The RV’s propane detector is mounted low for that reason; test it and know its replacement date.
Leak checks. Brush or spray soapy water on fittings after any cylinder change or repair. Bubbles mean a leak.
If you smell gas, shut off the cylinder valve, get everyone out, don’t use switches, phones or flames nearby, and call for help once you’re away.
Cylinder dates. The Canada Safety Council says cylinders in Canada must be inspected and requalified or replaced every 10 years. It’s illegal for an attendant to fill an outdated cylinder or to fill one beyond 80% of capacity.
Annual inspection. The Canada Safety Council recommends having the whole system and appliances inspected every year.
Travelling with propane on or off is covered in your RV’s manual. Follow it, and turn appliances off when refuelling the vehicle if the manual says to.
Appliance flames should be clean and steady. A yellow, sooty flame or a burning smell from the furnace means it needs service.
Turn propane off at the cylinder when it isn’t in use, as Halifax Fire advises.

Maintenance through the seasons

Living in an RV wears it faster than weekend use. Water is its biggest enemy, then sun, then the road. A regular routine catches most problems while they’re still small. Your manuals give the intervals for your RV; this is a general plan.

System	What to check	How often
Roof and seals	Sealant around vents, skylights, the edges and anything mounted on the roof. Look for cracks, gaps and peeling. Inside, look for stains and soft spots in ceilings and corners.	At least spring and fall, and after hail or a big windstorm. Reseal as the maker recommends.
Windows, doors and slide seals	Cracked or loose seals, drafts, water stains under windows and around slide-outs. Clean and treat slide seals as the manual says.	Spring and fall; more often in winter.
Tires	Pressure cold, using the figure on the tire information label, not the maximum on the sidewall. Cuts, cracks, bulges and uneven wear. The four-digit date code on the sidewall shows when the tire was made.	Transport Canada advises checking pressure at least monthly; also before every move. Check age every year.
Wheel bearings	Hub temperature after driving (one much hotter than the others is a warning), grease, noise and play.	Feel hubs at every stop. Inspect and repack as the axle maker recommends, often yearly or by distance.
Brakes	Trailer brake operation and adjustment, the brake controller setting, and the breakaway switch and its battery.	Test before every move; inspect with the bearings.
Hitch and running gear	Kingpin or coupler, safety chains, landing gear, jacks, stabilizers, lights and wiring.	Before every move; lubricate as the manual says.
Batteries	Charge level, tight and clean connections, water level in flooded batteries.	Monthly; before and after storage.
Propane system and appliances	Leak check, flame quality, vents clear, detector working.	Leak check after every cylinder change; professional inspection yearly.
Alarms and extinguisher	Test CO, smoke and propane alarms; check expiry dates; check the extinguisher gauge.	Monthly when living in the RV, and every time you open it up.
Motorhome chassis and engine	Oil, fluids, belts, filters and the chassis maker’s service schedule.	As the chassis maker recommends, including when it sits.

A year at a glance

Spring: mouse check and safe clean-up (see opening up in spring), de-winterize and sanitize, roof and seals, tires and date codes, batteries, propane leak check, alarms.
Summer: tire covers if you’re parked, awning care, roof check after hail, keep vents and fridge vents clean.
Fall: roof and seals again, furnace service, bearings and brakes if due, then winterize or prepare for winter living. See winterizing versus staying in.
Winter: snow load and ice on the roof and slides, batteries kept charged, check for leaks after chinook thaws. Clear snow from a sturdy ladder or the ground with a long-handled tool, and never walk on an icy roof.

What it means for you: book big service jobs for the off-season. RV shops around here can be busy in spring, just when everyone wants to go camping. And if ladders and roofs aren’t as easy as they used to be, hire out the roof inspection. Many RV roofs aren’t built to walk on, so check your manual before anyone climbs up.

When the grandkids visit

An RV is an exciting place for children, and it has hazards a house doesn’t. Before the grandkids arrive, walk through the RV and the site the way a child would see them.

Slide-outs can pinch and crush. Make sure everyone is clear, inside and out, before you move one, and keep children away from the slide mechanism.
The steps and the door are where a lot of falls happen. Keep the steps clear and solid, and use the grab handle.
Propane, the stove and the furnace vents are off-limits. Teach children what propane smells like and to tell an adult right away.
Generators get hot and give off carbon monoxide. Keep children well away from a running generator and its exhaust.
The emergency exit window: show older children where it is and how it opens.
Campground roads have cars, trucks and trailers backing up. Agree on where children can ride bikes and walk.
Medicines in an RV are often on the counter, in a purse or in a bedside drawer, right at a child’s height. Parachute’s advice is to keep all medicines locked up high, out of sight and out of reach. If a child swallows something, call 911 or a poison centre.
Water: if your site is near a river, reservoir or canal, set the rules before the first walk. See water safety for kids.

Kids’ corner

Three RV rules for visiting kids. One: when a grown-up says a slide-out is moving, step right back from the wall and stay out of the way until it stops. Two: if you smell something like rotten eggs, tell a grown-up straight away. That smell is added to propane on purpose so people notice a leak. Three: stay away from a running generator. It gets hot, and its exhaust is poisonous even though you can’t see it.

Wonder: propane has no smell of its own, so why does a propane leak smell like rotten eggs? (People add the smell to it, just so we can notice a leak.)

Try this: ask a grown-up to show you the emergency exit window in the RV and how it opens. Then find the smoke alarm and the fire extinguisher. Now you know the RV’s safety spots.

Keep a log

A simple notebook or phone note, kept in the RV, saves money and worry:

Dates of every service, repair and part, with receipts.
Tire date codes and pressures, bearing service dates, and roof resealing dates.
Propane cylinder requalification dates, and alarm expiry dates.
Serial and model numbers for appliances, filters and fuses.
Your RV’s height, length and weights, for bridges, gas stations and campgrounds.

A good log also helps when you sell the RV. Buyers trust a well-documented rig. See depreciation.

Southern Alberta specifics

Hard water

The City of Lethbridge’s quarterly water reports put treated-water hardness at 147 mg/L (June 2025), 145 mg/L (September 2025) and 158 mg/L (March 2026). Health Canada explains that hardness forms scale inside hot-water pipes and water heaters, and on the US Geological Survey scale it quotes, 121 to 180 mg/L counts as hard. For the RV, that means flushing the water heater as your manual says, checking the anode rod if yours has one, and expecting white crust on faucets and showerheads. Campgrounds outside the city may have different water, so ask.

Chinook freeze–thaw

Lethbridge’s January averages −6.0 °C (normals 1981–2010), yet about 19 January days climb above 0 °C and about 28 nights drop to 0 °C or below. Water lines, valves and tanks can thaw and refreeze over and over, and the record low is −42.8 °C. Water left in a low point, a valve body or a sewer hose is where damage starts. See winterizing versus staying in and chinooks.

Propane in a cold snap

The furnace burns the most propane on the coldest nights, just when you least want to go for a refill. Change to a full cylinder before a cold snap, keep snow and ice off cylinder valves and the regulator, and follow your RV manual for cold-weather use.

Wind and awnings

West is Lethbridge’s most common wind in every month, averaging about 21 km/h in December and January, with a record gust of 171 km/h. Environment Canada’s impact guide notes that high winds push high-sided vehicles around. Roll in the awning whenever you leave the site or the wind picks up, and check slide toppers after a windstorm.

Hail

Environment Canada calls Calgary the hailstorm capital of Canada, and its June 2020 storm, with hail the size of tennis balls, was the most damaging hailstorm in Canadian history. Check roof vents, skylights and the roof itself after any hail. See hail safety.

Sources

Standards Council of Canada, CSA Group notice: Recreational vehicles (CSA Z240 RV Series scope: general, vehicular, plumbing, propane and electrical requirements; electrical part based on the Canadian Electrical Code): scc-ccn.ca
Alberta Parks, Generators in campgrounds (occupant present, exhaust direction, powered sites, 60 decibels, inverter generators): albertaparks.ca
Health Canada, Carbon monoxide: Preventing exposure (generators at least 6 m from buildings, exhaust away from windows and doors): canada.ca
Health Canada, Barbecue and portable butane stove safety (propane heavier than air; soapy-water leak test): canada.ca
Canada Safety Council, Fuel for summer activities (10-year requalification, 80% fill, annual inspection, rotten-egg odour, leaks): canadasafetycouncil.org
Halifax Regional Municipality, Tent and trailer camping fire safety (propane off when not in use, alarms, extinguisher): halifax.ca
Transport Canada, Riding on air (pressure checked cold, at least monthly, using the label not the sidewall; date code; inspection): tc.canada.ca
Government of Alberta, Camping on public land (take waste home or to a dump station): alberta.ca
Environment and Climate Change Canada, Lightning safety when camping (RVs on shore power): canada.ca
Parachute, Poisoning (store medicines locked up, out of sight and reach; visitors’ bags): parachute.ca
Environment and Climate Change Canada, Canadian Climate Normals 1991–2020, Lethbridge (about 2,500 hours of sunshine a year).
Your RV’s, appliances’, batteries’ and axles’ manuals are the final word on maintenance intervals and procedures.
City of Lethbridge, Water Treatment Plant quarterly water quality summaries (hardness 147 mg/L June 2025, 145 mg/L September 2025, 158 mg/L March 2026): June 2025, September 2025, March 2026
Health Canada, Guidelines for Canadian Drinking Water Quality: Operational Parameters (hardness, scale in water heaters, classification table): canada.ca
Environment and Climate Change Canada, Canadian Climate Normals 1981–2010, Lethbridge A (January mean, days above and below 0 °C, record low −42.8 °C, wind direction and speed, record gust): climate.weather.gc.ca
Environment and Climate Change Canada, Weather impact guides (wind): canada.ca
Environment and Climate Change Canada, Canada’s top ten weather stories of 2020 (Calgary hailstorm, June 13, 2020): canada.ca

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