Knots and Cordage · The knots

Essential Knots

Ten knots that handle nearly every job at camp, in the truck and around the yard. For each one: what it’s for, numbered steps, how to check it, and the mistake people make most. Gary’s four favourites are marked.

⏱ 15 min readLevel: Beginner to intermediateUpdated November 2026

On this page

  1. Before you start
  2. Bowline
  3. Clove hitch
  4. Two half hitches
  5. Taut-line hitch
  6. Prusik
  7. Trucker’s hitch
  8. Sheet bend
  9. Figure-eight on a bight
  10. Square (reef) knot
  11. Overhand loop

Before you start

Grab two pieces of soft rope about 1 to 1.5 m long, ideally in two colours, and something to tie to, such as a chair leg. If words like “bight” and “standing part” are new, see Rope words to know.

  • ⭐ Gary’s pick marks the four knots Gary likes best: the bowline, the clove hitch, the half hitch and the Prusik.
  • Short videos. Most knots below have a short video from a reputable teaching source, such as Scouting America, a non-profit outdoor school, or well-known knot and rope-rescue instructors. Watch it, then tie along with the steps. A printed knot chart and an in-person class help too. See How to practise.
  • Diagrams. Where it covers the knot, we link the International Guild of Knot Tyers’ free Sea Cadet knots page, which has a drawing of each one.
  • Children have their own version of six of these knots, plus a stopper knot, on Knots every kid should know.

These knots are for camp, the yard and the truck. None of the steps here are training for climbing, rescue or holding a person’s weight.

Bowline

⭐ Gary’s pick. One of the four knots Gary likes best.

What it’s for: a fixed loop at the end of a rope that won’t shrink or slip when you pull on it. Drop it over a post, tie it around a tree, or make a tie-out loop for a tarp. Its big advantage is that it unties easily, even after a hard pull.

  1. Measure the loop. Leave enough rope at the end for the size of loop you want, plus about 30 cm.
  2. Make a small loop in the standing part, with the side that leads to the working end lying on top.
  3. Up through. Pass the working end up through the small loop from underneath.
  4. Around behind. Take it around behind the standing part.
  5. Back down. Bring it back down through the small loop, right alongside the part that came up.
  6. Set it. Hold the working end and the side of the big loop together, and pull the standing part firmly.

Check it: the tail sits inside the big loop, beside the side of the loop, and a neat collar wraps around the standing part. Pull hard on the big loop: it shouldn’t get smaller. Leave a tail at least a hand’s width long.

Video: Scouting America: How to Tie a Bowline, from Troop Leader on YouTube. Watch on YouTube ↗

How to tie a bowline in four picturesSteps 1 and 2: make a small loop in the standing part with the side leading to the working end on top. Step 3: pass the working end up through the small loop from underneath. Steps 4 and 5: take it around behind the standing part and back down through the small loop beside the part that came up. Step 6: hold the working end and the side of the big loop together and pull the standing part. The tail ends up inside the big loop.BowlineA fixed loop that won’t slipstanding partworking end1–2Make a small loopon topheresmall loopLeave enough rope for the big loop, plus30 cm. The side going to the end is on top.3Up throughupthroughThe working end comes up through thesmall loop from underneath.4–5Around behind, back downaround behind,then back downAround behind the standing part, then backdown the small loop beside where it came up.6Set itpull firmlyhold thesetogethercollartail insidethe big loopHold the end and the side of the big looptogether. Pull the standing part firmly.
Bowline, steps 1 to 6. The gold working end goes up through the small loop, around behind the standing part and back down. A gap in a rope means it passes underneath. Drawn to match the numbered steps on this page. Check against the International Guild of Knot Tyers knot charts (igkt.net).

Common mistake: making the first small loop with the standing part on top. The “knot” then falls apart into a slip knot when you pull it. Also, a bowline can shake loose in a line that flaps for hours. For a long-term tie-out, add a half hitch or a stopper knot with the tail.

Diagram: IGKT Sea Cadet knots (bowline). Kids’ version: the rabbit and the tree.

Clove hitch

⭐ Gary’s pick. One of the four knots Gary likes best.

What it’s for: a fast grip on a pole, post, stake or rail, and the usual start for lashings. It’s quick to tie and quick to untie, and easy to adjust before you pull it tight.

  1. First wrap. Pass the working end around the post.
  2. Cross over. Bring it across the front of the standing part, making an X.
  3. Second wrap. Take it around the post again, beside the first wrap, going around in the same direction.
  4. Tuck. Push the working end under the second wrap, so it comes out under the centre of the X.
  5. Set it. Pull both ends in opposite directions.

Check it: from the front you see an X with the two ends coming out from under it in opposite directions. From the back you see two straight wraps side by side.

Video: Scouting America: How to Tie a Clove Hitch, from Troop Leader on YouTube. Watch on YouTube ↗

How to tie a clove hitch in four picturesStep 1: pass the working end around the post. Step 2: bring it across the front of the standing part to make an X. Steps 3 and 4: take it around the post again in the same direction, beside the first wrap, and tuck the end under the second wrap so it comes out under the centre of the X. Step 5: pull both ends in opposite directions. From the front you see an X; behind the post are two straight wraps side by side.Clove hitchA quick grip on a post, pole or railstanding partworking end1First wrapgoes behindthe poststanding partpostPass the working end around the post.2Cross overX on thefrontaroundagainBring it across the front of the standingpart, making an X.3–4Second wrap and tucktucked underthe 2nd wrapAround again, same direction. Tuck the endunder the second wrap, at the X’s centre.5Set itpullpull2 wraps behind(dashed)Pull both ends in opposite directions. Add ahalf hitch or two for anything that matters.
Clove hitch, steps 1 to 5, seen from the front. Dashed lines are the wraps behind the post. A gap in a rope means it passes underneath. Drawn to match the numbered steps on this page. Check against the International Guild of Knot Tyers knot charts (igkt.net).

Common mistake: trusting it alone. A clove hitch can work loose if the post turns or the load tugs back and forth. The NSW Government’s rigging guide says it isn’t safe for other purposes unless the end is secured with an extra half hitch. For anything that matters, add one or two half hitches around the standing part.

Diagram: IGKT Sea Cadet knots (clove hitch). Kids’ version: clove hitch.

Two half hitches

⭐ Gary’s pick. The half hitch is one of the four knots Gary likes best.

What it’s for: tying a rope to a ring, post, tree or tie-down point. It’s also the standard way to finish and secure other knots. Adding a full turn around the post first (a “round turn and two half hitches”) takes the strain off the knot and is better for anything heavy.

  1. Around the post. Pass the working end around the post or through the ring. For a heavier load, go around twice.
  2. First half hitch. Bring the working end over the standing part, around it, and back through the gap you just made.
  3. Second half hitch. Do exactly the same again a little farther along the standing part, wrapping in the same direction.
  4. Set it. Slide both hitches up snug against the post and pull the tail tight.
How to tie two half hitches in four pictures Step 1: pass the working end around the post. Step 2: bring it over the standing part, around it, and back through the gap, making the first half hitch. Step 3: make a second half hitch the same way, a little farther along the standing part and wrapping in the same direction. Step 4: slide both hitches snug against the post and pull the tail tight. The two hitches look like a clove hitch around the standing part. Two half hitches Tie a rope to a post, ring or tree standing part working end 1 Around the post post to the load heavy load: go around twice Pass the working end around the post. Dashed line: the part behind the post. 2 First half hitch over, around, back through first half hitch Over the standing part, around it, and back through the gap you just made. 3 Second half hitch same direction The same again, a little farther along, wrapping in the same direction. 4 Set it pull slide snug like a clove hitch on the standing part Slide both hitches up snug against the post and pull the tail tight.
Two half hitches, steps 1 to 4. Both hitches wrap the same way, so together they look like a clove hitch around the standing part. A gap in a rope means it passes underneath. Drawn to match the numbered steps on this page. Check against the International Guild of Knot Tyers knot charts (igkt.net).

Check it: the two half hitches sit side by side and look like a clove hitch wrapped around the standing part.

Video: Round Turn Two Half Hitches | Round Turn Knot, from AnimatedKnots on YouTube. Watch on YouTube ↗

Common mistake: wrapping the second hitch in the opposite direction. That makes a weaker knot that can slip. If the two hitches look like mirror images of each other, untie and redo the second one.

Diagram: IGKT Sea Cadet knots (round turn and two half hitches). Kids’ version: two half hitches.

Taut-line hitch

What it’s for: tent and tarp guy lines. It makes a loop around a stake that you can slide to tighten or loosen the line, but it grips when the wind pulls. Ropes stretch and stakes shift overnight, so this is the knot that lets you take up the slack in the morning without retying.

  1. Around the anchor. Pass the working end around the stake.
  2. Back up. Bring it back alongside the standing part (the line going to the tent), so you have a loop around the stake.
  3. Two wraps inside. Wrap the working end around the standing part twice, working back toward the stake, inside the loop.
  4. One wrap outside. Bring the working end across those wraps and wrap it once more around the standing part, in the same direction as the first two, on the far side away from the stake, outside the loop.
  5. Tuck and set. Tuck the end under that last wrap and pull it snug.
  6. Adjust. Slide the knot up the standing part to tighten the line, or down to loosen it.
How to tie a taut-line hitch in four pictures Steps 1 and 2: pass the working end around the stake and bring it back alongside the standing part, which runs to the tent, making a loop around the stake. Step 3: wrap the working end twice around the standing part, working back toward the stake, inside the loop. Step 4: bring the end back across those two wraps and wrap it once more around the standing part, the same way round, on the far side from the stake, outside the loop. Step 5: tuck the end under that last wrap and pull it snug. Step 6: slide the knot along the standing part to tighten or loosen the line. Two wraps inside the loop, one outside. Taut-line hitch An adjustable loop for tent and tarp lines standing part working end 1–2 Around the stake and back stake to the tent back alongside loop around the stake Pass the end around the stake and bring it back alongside the standing part. 3 Two wraps inside 2 wraps, inside the loop toward the stake Wrap the end twice around the standing part, working back toward the stake. 4 One wrap outside across the wraps 1 wrap outside Bring the end across the wraps, then wrap once more beyond them, the same way round. 5–6 Tuck, set and adjust tuck under slide toward the tent to tighten 2 wraps inside, 1 outside Tuck the end under that last wrap and snug it. Slide the knot along the line to adjust it.
Taut-line hitch, steps 1 to 6. Two wraps inside the loop, then one outside, tucked under itself. Pull on the line like the wind: it should grip. Push the knot: it should slide. Dashed line: rope behind the stake. A gap in a rope means it passes underneath. Drawn to match the numbered steps on this page. Check against the International Guild of Knot Tyers knot charts (igkt.net).

Check it: two wraps inside the loop, one outside. Pull on the standing part like the wind would: the knot should grip and stay put. Push the knot by hand: it should slide.

Video: How to Tie a Taut Line Hitch – Wilderness Inquiry Trail Tips, from Wilderness Inquiry on YouTube. Watch on YouTube ↗

Common mistake: putting the last wrap on the wrong side, so the knot slides under load. In slippery synthetic cord, the knot can creep even when tied right. Add a third wrap inside the loop.

Kids’ version: the tent knot.

Prusik

⭐ Gary’s pick. One of the four knots Gary likes best. His guy-line method with a Prusik is on our Bushcraft page.

What it’s for: a friction hitch. A loop of thinner cord wrapped around a thicker rope grips tight when it’s pulled, but slides freely when you push the wraps by hand. At camp it’s used to hang tarp corners or gear on a ridgeline so they can be slid into place, and to tension guy lines.

What you need: a closed loop of cord that is noticeably thinner than the rope it grips. The two ends are usually joined with a double fisherman’s knot; have someone experienced show you that knot, or use a ready-made loop.

  1. Lay the loop behind the main rope, with the joining knot off to one side, away from where the wraps will go.
  2. First wrap. Bring one end of the loop over the main rope and pass it through the other end of the loop.
  3. More wraps. Keep going around the main rope and back through the loop, each wrap lying inside the last, for three wraps in total (add a fourth on slick or icy rope).
  4. Dress it. Make all the wraps lie neatly side by side, not crossed, with the loop coming out of the middle.
  5. Load it. Pull the loop straight out. It should grip.

Check it: neat, parallel wraps on the main rope and a single strand crossing the middle. Pull the loop hard in either direction along the main rope: it should hold. Push the wraps (not the loop) and it should slide.

Gary’s pick: The World’s Most Reliable Knot: The Prusik Hitch, from The Bear Essentials on YouTube. Watch on YouTube ↗

How to tie a Prusik in four picturesStep 1: lay a closed loop of thinner cord behind the main rope, with its joining knot off to one side. Step 2: bring one end of the loop over the main rope and through the other end. Step 3: keep wrapping and passing through, each wrap inside the last, for three wraps in total. Steps 4 and 5: dress the wraps so they lie neatly side by side with the loop coming out of the middle, then pull the loop to make it grip. Pushing the wraps lets it slide.PrusikA loop of cord that grips a thicker ropemain ropePrusik loop1Lay the loop behindjoining knot,off to the sidemain ropeloop liesbehind the ropeA closed loop of thinner cord, with itsjoining knot away from the wraps.2First wrapover the frontthen throughthe other endBring one end over the main rope and passit through the other end of the loop.3Three wraps in totalwraps 1, 2, 3wraps 1, 2, 3each wrapinside the lastKeep wrapping and passing through. Each wraplies inside the last. Add a 4th on slick rope.4–5Dress it and load itpull the loop:it gripspush thewraps:it slidesone strandacross themiddleWraps neat and side by side, not crossed,with the loop coming out of the middle.
Prusik, steps 1 to 5, seen from the side where the loop comes out. The gold cord must be noticeably thinner than the blue main rope. A gap in a rope means it passes underneath. Not for holding a person. Drawn to match the numbered steps on this page. Check against the International Guild of Knot Tyers knot charts (igkt.net).

Common mistake: using cord that’s too thick or too slippery for the main rope. Similar diameters, or slick cord on slick rope, can slip. Add a wrap, or use a thinner loop. Crossed wraps also grip poorly.

The Prusik is also used in climbing and rope rescue. Those uses need training and gear rated for life safety. Don’t experiment with it to hold a person.

Trucker’s hitch

What it’s for: pulling a line very tight, like a simple pulley, and then holding it. Use it to tie a load down in the truck or on a trailer, or to tighten a ridgeline for a tarp.

  1. Tie off one end to the load or the first anchor (a bowline or two half hitches works).
  2. Make a fixed loop in the standing part, partway between the load and the second anchor. A figure-eight on a bight is the most reliable. An overhand loop works for light loads but weakens the rope more and can jam.
  3. Around the anchor. Pass the working end around the second anchor or tie-down point.
  4. Up through the loop. Bring the working end back up and through the fixed loop.
  5. Pull down. Pull the working end toward the anchor. The loop acts like a pulley and gives you extra pulling power.
  6. Pinch and tie off. Pinch the line at the loop to hold the tension, then finish with two half hitches around both strands just below the loop. A slipped half hitch makes it quick to release.

Check it: the line should be drum-tight, the fixed loop shouldn’t be twisted or sliding, and the half hitches should be snug.

Gary’s pick: The Trucker’s Hitch…But Better, from The Bear Essentials on YouTube. Watch on YouTube ↗

How to tie a trucker’s hitch in three picturesSteps 1 and 2: tie one end to the load or first anchor, then make a fixed loop, such as a figure-eight on a bight, in the standing part. Steps 3 to 5: pass the working end around the second anchor, back up through the fixed loop, and pull it down toward the anchor; the loop works like a pulley. Step 6: pinch the line at the loop and finish with two half hitches around both strands just below the loop.Trucker’s hitchPull a line tight and hold itstanding partworking end1–2Tie off, make a fixed loopfirst anchorfixed loop(figure-eighton a bight)secondanchorworking endTie one end to the first anchor. Make a fixedloop partway along the standing part.3–5Around, up through, pullup throughthe looparound theanchorpulldownthe loop workslike a pulleyAround the second anchor, up through the fixedloop, then pull down. Face out of the line.6Pinch and tie offpinch here2 half hitchesaround bothstrandsPinch at the loop, then tie two half hitchesaround both strands just below the loop.
Trucker’s hitch, steps 1 to 6. The fixed loop is shown as a closed knot; tie it as a figure-eight on a bight. A gap in a rope means it passes underneath. For heavy loads on the highway, use rated tie-down straps. Drawn to match the numbered steps on this page. Check against the International Guild of Knot Tyers knot charts (igkt.net).
From Gary

Do knots matter? “They always matter.” The last time that comes to Gary’s mind, he was out on the highway and needed a ratchet strap he didn’t have. He cinched the load down with a rope instead; it held everything in place nicely, and the knot didn’t jam, so it was easy to undo. He has also used hitches at the campground to tie down the top of a cage and to secure the gazebo. “They never moved.”

Common mistakes: using a slip knot for the loop, which can collapse under load, and over-tightening. A trucker’s hitch can pull hard enough to damage the load or the rope. Keep your face out of the line of pull while you tighten it.

Friction and strength: rope running through a rope loop loses much of its pulling power to friction, so you get far less than the three-to-one a pulley would give. The rubbing also heats and wears the rope at the loop, and the loop knot itself weakens the rope: tests by the U.S. Army Mountain Warfare School put an overhand knot at about 60 to 65% of the rope’s strength and a figure eight at about 75 to 80%. Tie the loop in a fresh spot now and then, inspect it after use, and for heavy loads on the highway use rated tie-down straps.

Sheet bend

What it’s for: joining two ropes, even when one is thicker than the other. Use it to lengthen a clothesline or guy line, or to join cord to a tarp’s loop.

  1. Make a bight in the end of the thicker rope.
  2. Up through. Pass the end of the thinner rope up through the bight from underneath.
  3. Around behind. Take it around behind both legs of the bight.
  4. Tuck under itself. Tuck it under its own standing part, where it first came up, but not back through the bight.
  5. Set it. Hold the bight and pull the thinner rope’s standing part.
How to tie a sheet bend in five pictures Step 1: make a bight in the end of the thicker rope. Step 2: pass the end of the thinner rope up through the bight from underneath. Step 3: take it around behind both legs of the bight. Step 4: tuck it under its own standing part, where it first came up, not back through the bight. Step 5: hold the bight and pull the thinner rope’s standing part. Both short tails come out on the same side of the knot. Sheet bend Join two ropes, even of different thickness thicker rope thinner rope 1 Make a bight bight standing part short end Fold the end of the thicker rope back into a U-shape (a bight). 2 Up through up through from underneath under Pass the end of the thinner rope up through the bight from underneath. 3 Around behind around behind both legs Take it around behind both legs of the bight. 4 Tuck under itself under itself, not through the bight Tuck it under its own standing part, where it first came up. 5 Set it pull hold the bight both tails on the same side Hold the bight and pull the thinner rope’s standing part.
Sheet bend, steps 1 to 5. The thinner gold rope goes up through the blue bight, around behind both legs, and under itself. Check that both short tails are on the same side. A gap in a rope means it passes underneath. Drawn to match the numbered steps on this page. Check against the International Guild of Knot Tyers knot charts (igkt.net).

Check it: both short tails come out on the same side of the knot.

Video: How to Tie A Sheet Bend, from Nautilus Sailing on YouTube. Watch on YouTube ↗

Common mistake: tails on opposite sides. That version is less secure. For ropes of very different thickness, or slippery synthetic rope, make a double sheet bend: take the thinner rope around behind the bight a second time before tucking.

Diagram: IGKT Sea Cadet knots (sheet bend and double sheet bend). Kids’ version: sheet bend.

Figure-eight on a bight

What it’s for: a strong fixed loop at the end of a rope that’s easy to inspect, because a correct one has a very clear pattern. Use it for an anchor loop, a loop to clip to, or the loop in a trucker’s hitch.

  1. Double the rope. Fold the end back on itself to make a long bight, about forearm length. From here on, treat the doubled rope as if it were one rope.
  2. Make a loop. Cross the bight over the doubled standing part.
  3. Around behind. Take the bight around behind the standing part.
  4. Through the loop. Pass the bight down through the loop you made in step 2, from the front.
  5. Dress and set. Straighten the strands so they lie side by side, then pull each of the four strands tight.
How to tie a figure-eight on a bight in five pictures Step 1: fold the end back to make a long bight and treat the doubled rope as one. Step 2: cross the bight over the doubled standing part to make a loop. Step 3: take the bight around behind the standing part. Step 4: pass the bight down through the loop from the front. The bight that comes out is the fixed loop. Step 5: straighten the strands so they lie side by side, then pull each of the four strands tight. The two strands never cross each other. Figure-eight on a bight A strong fixed loop that is easy to inspect standing part working end 1 Double the rope bight treat the doubled rope as one tail Fold the end back into a long bight, about forearm length. 2 Make a loop cross over loop Cross the bight over the doubled standing part. 3 Around behind around behind Take the bight around behind the standing part. 4 Through the loop down through the loop fixed loop Pass the bight down through the loop from the front, from step 2. 5 Dress and set pull all 4 strands strands side by side, never crossing Straighten the strands so they lie side by side, then pull each of the four strands tight.
Figure-eight on a bight, steps 1 to 5. The doubled rope is tied like a single figure-eight knot. A gap in a rope means it passes underneath. Leave a tail several centimetres long. Drawn to match the numbered steps on this page. Check against the International Guild of Knot Tyers knot charts (igkt.net).

Check it: you see a clear figure 8 made of two parallel strands that never cross each other. Leave a tail several centimetres long.

Video: How to Tie a Figure 8 on a Bight // CMC Fundamentals: Learn Your Knots, from CMC on YouTube. Watch on YouTube ↗

Common mistake: crossed or twisted strands. It still looks roughly like an eight but is harder to inspect and untie. It can also be very hard to untie after a heavy load; for loops you’ll want to undo often, a bowline is easier.

Square (reef) knot

What it’s for: tying two ends of the same cord around something: a bundle of sticks, a sleeping bag strap, a bag, or a triangular bandage in first aid. It lies flat and is easy to untie.

  1. Right over left. Cross the right end over the left end and tuck it under, like the first step of tying shoes.
  2. Left over right. Cross the end now in your left hand over the one in your right hand, and tuck it under.
  3. Set it. Pull both ends evenly.
How to tie a square or reef knot in three pictures, with a granny knot for comparison The cord goes around a bundle of sticks; its gold end starts in your right hand and its navy end in your left. Step 1: cross the right end over the left end and tuck it under: it goes over, under and back over, and the ends swap hands. Step 2: cross the end now in your left hand over the one in your right hand and tuck it under the same way. Step 3: pull both ends evenly. The knot lies flat as two interlocking loops, and each short end comes out beside its own standing part, both parts of each rope passing the same way through the other loop. Inset: a granny knot, made by going right over left both times. In a granny one part of each rope goes over the other loop and one goes under; it sits crooked and slips. Square (reef) knot Right over left, then left over right left-hand end right-hand end 1 Right over left 1 2 3 right end: 1 over, 2 under, 3 back over bundle now in your left hand now in your right hand Cross the right end over the left end and tuck it under, like the first step of tying shoes. 2 Left over right 1 2 3 left end: 1 over, 2 under, 3 back over bundle Cross the end now in your left hand over the one in your right hand, and tuck it under. 3 Set it end end standing part standing part flat: two loops hugging, each end beside its own standing part Not this: a granny knot Right over left twice. One part of each rope goes over the other loop, one under: it slips. Pull both ends evenly. In a square knot both parts of each rope go the same way.
Square (reef) knot, steps 1 to 3: right over left, then left over right. The inset shows the granny knot you get by going right over left both times. A gap in a rope means it passes underneath. Never use a reef knot to join ropes that take a load. Drawn to match the numbered steps on this page. Check against the International Guild of Knot Tyers knot charts (igkt.net).

Check it: the knot lies flat and looks like two interlocking loops. Each short end comes out on the same side as its own standing part.

Video: Scouting America: How to Tie and Use a Square Knot (Basic Approach), from Troop Leader on YouTube. Watch on YouTube ↗

Not for loads. The International Guild of Knot Tyers warns that the reef knot should never be used to join two ropes that will be under load. It can slip or spill apart when one end is tugged. To join ropes, use a sheet bend.

Common mistake: going “right over left” both times. That makes a granny knot, which sits crooked and slips easily.

Diagram: IGKT Sea Cadet knots (reef knot). Kids’ version: square knot.

Overhand loop

What it’s for: the quickest fixed loop there is, and you can tie it anywhere along a line, not just at the end. Use it to hang a lantern or a bag from a ridgeline, to make a loop for a trucker’s hitch, or to put a loop in the end of a clothesline.

  1. Make a bight where you want the loop.
  2. Tie an overhand knot with it. Treating the doubled rope as one, make a loop and pass the bight through it.
  3. Size and set. Adjust the loop to the size you want, then pull all the strands tight.
How to tie an overhand loop in three pictures Step 1: make a bight where you want the loop. Step 2: treating the doubled rope as one, tie an overhand knot with it: make a loop and pass the bight through it. Step 3: adjust the loop to the size you want, then pull all the strands tight. The strands lie side by side. Overhand loop The quickest fixed loop, anywhere on a line standing part working end 1 Make a bight bight the doubled rope, treated as one Make a bight where you want the loop. 2 Tie an overhand knot with it loop crosses over bight: under, then up Treat the doubled rope as one: make a loop and pass the bight through it. 3 Size and set pull pull fixed loop Adjust the loop to size, then pull all the strands tight.
Overhand loop, steps 1 to 3. The doubled rope is tied like a single overhand knot. A gap in a rope means it passes underneath. It can jam after a heavy load. Drawn to match the numbered steps on this page. Check against the International Guild of Knot Tyers knot charts (igkt.net).

Check it: a compact knot with the strands lying side by side and a loop that doesn’t change size when you pull on it.

Video: How to Tie an Overhand Loop // CMC Fundamentals: Learn Your Knots, from CMC on YouTube. Watch on YouTube ↗

Common mistake: using it where you’ll need to untie it. After a heavy load it can jam very tight. It’s also weaker than a figure-eight loop. For a loop in the middle of a line that takes heavy pulls, climbers and riggers use the alpine butterfly; it’s best learned in person.

Kids’ corner

A hitch, a bend or a loop? A hitch ties a rope to something. A bend joins two ropes. A loop knot makes a loop that stays the same size.

Wonder: why does a sailor’s knot need to be easy to untie, even when it’s wet and has been pulled hard?

Try this: sort the ten knots on this page into hitches, bends and loops. One knot doesn’t belong in any of the three groups. Can you find it, and say why? (Hint: it ties up bundles, and it should never join two ropes that hold a load.)

Sources

  • International Guild of Knot Tyers, Sea Cadet knots (diagrams and uses for the bowline, clove hitch, round turn and two half hitches, sheet bend, double sheet bend and reef knot; reef knot warning): igkt.net
  • International Guild of Knot Tyers, Free publications: knot charts: igkt.net
  • NSW Government, Dogging and rigging guide, Knots (clove hitch needs an extra half hitch; sheet bend for ropes of different sizes, double sheet bend safer): nsw.gov.au
  • NSW Government, Dogging and rigging guide, Rope handling and maintenance (never stand in line with a rope under tension): nsw.gov.au
  • U.S. Army Mountain Warfare School, Knot Guide (strength of knots compared with unknotted rope): army.mil
  • Step-by-step wording for the taut-line hitch, Prusik, trucker’s hitch, figure-eight on a bight and overhand loop follows standard knot-tying practice; check against a printed knot guide.
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Hello! “Few people ever get dizzy from doing too many good turns.”