Choosing Your Bike
Twelve practical questions that narrow the choice, a set of real-world scenarios, the things that surprise new owners, what owning a bike really involves over one, three and five years, and how to get the most out of a test ride. Read this before you spend money.
On this page
The 12 questions
Work through these honestly, ideally with a pen. Different riders will weigh them differently, and that’s the point. A casual rider doing a 5 km loop on paved pathways has very different needs from someone commuting 25 km, riding gravel trails, or carrying a bike to a campground.
- What will the bike be used for? Recreation and exercise, errands, commuting, trails, camping and travel, carrying groceries or children, long comfortable rides, or stable, accessible riding. Pick the one you’ll do most often, then one or two others.
- Where will you ride? Paved pathways, city streets, gravel roads, coulee single track, rural highways. Lethbridge riders often mix paved pathways with some aggregate paths and a coulee hill or two.
- What distances? Your typical ride and your longest ride. A bike for 5 km and a bike for 50 km can be quite different.
- How much physical effort do you want? Some riders want a workout; others want a gentle ride that leaves energy for the grandkids at the park.
- Is electric assist desirable, or necessary? “Nice to have” for hills and wind, “necessary” because of distance, health or load, or “not wanted”. See E-bikes explained.
- What riding position is comfortable? Leaning forward, sitting upright, or reclined with back support. Think about your wrists, neck, shoulders, back and saddle area.
- Do balance, mounting or dismounting matter? If swinging a leg over is hard, a step-through frame helps. If balance at stops is a worry, consider three wheels. See Recumbents and trikes.
- Two wheels or three? Three wheels stand up on their own but are wider, heavier and corner differently.
- How will the bike be transported? Ridden from home, or carried on a car, truck or RV? Can you lift it? See Transporting bikes.
- Where will it be stored? A garage hook, a shed, an apartment, an RV bay. Will the battery have a warm, safe place indoors?
- What’s the purchase budget? Include a helmet, lock, lights and any rack. Budget a little for the first tune-up.
- What service is available? Can a local shop service this bike, its parts and, for e-bikes, its motor system? Who handles warranty claims?
What it means for you: questions 1, 2, 6 and 9 usually narrow the choice the most. If your answers to those point in different directions, the tool below can help sort them out.
Tool A: Which bike is right for me?
The same tool as on the cycling home page. It asks about purpose, position, comfort, balance, surfaces, distance, assist and budget, and suggests two or three types of bike with reasons and alternatives.
Which bike is right for me?
Answer a few quick questions and get two or three bike types to try, with what to look for and what to test.
Real-world scenarios
These are typical situations, not real people. Each shows how the questions play out, and why there’s usually more than one reasonable answer.
A gentle pathway loop
Situation: 5 to 10 km on paved pathways a few times a week, mostly flat, riding from home.
Good starting points: a hybrid or comfort bike, possibly step-through.
Why: light, simple, inexpensive to own, easy to store. An e-bike isn’t needed for this, though it may let you ride on windier days.
A 25 km round-trip commute
Situation: across the city, including a climb out of the river valley, in all seasons except deep winter.
Good starting points: a commuter e-bike with fenders, lights and a rack; or a gravel or hybrid pedal bike for a fit rider.
Why: the motor handles the hill and the wind and gets you to work without a shower. Prioritize reliable brakes, a removable battery and a strong lock.
Gravel roads and the river valley
Situation: mixed pavement, range roads and aggregate paths, 20 to 60 km.
Good starting points: a gravel bike; a hardtail mountain bike if you’ll ride single track too.
Why: wide tires and low gears without the weight of full suspension.
Bikes to the campground
Situation: two bikes carried on a truck or RV to campgrounds, ridden on campground roads and local trails.
Good starting points: light pedal hybrids, folding bikes, or lighter e-bikes, chosen to suit the carrier.
Why: the carrier and lifting decide more than the riding. Weigh the bikes and check rack and hitch ratings first.
Sore wrists and a stiff neck
Situation: a returning rider who stopped because of hand numbness and neck pain on an ordinary bike.
Good starting points: first, a professional fit and a more upright comfort bike; if that isn’t enough, a two-wheel recumbent or a recumbent trike.
Why: fit fixes a lot. Recumbents remove the weight from the hands entirely, but only suit you if the seat height and handling do.
Balance at stops is the worry
Situation: a rider who’s anxious at intersections and slow speeds.
Good starting points: an upright adult trike, a delta trike, or a tadpole trike if they can manage the low seat.
Why: three wheels stand on their own. Cornering technique and transport need planning.
Groceries and errands
Situation: replacing short car trips, with a week’s groceries.
Good starting points: a hybrid with a rear rack and panniers; a cargo e-bike for larger loads or children.
Why: a rack and two panniers carry more than most people expect. Cargo bikes carry much more but are harder to store.
Apartment living
Situation: no garage, an elevator, a small balcony.
Good starting points: a folding bike or a light pedal hybrid.
Why: you’ll carry it often. If you choose an e-bike, check your building’s rules on charging and storing batteries indoors.
An example decision
Suppose someone answers: recreation, mostly Lethbridge pathways, comfortable upright riding, electric assist wanted, occasional hills and headwinds, and the bike carried on a vehicle sometimes.
- Primary starting point: a comfortable step-through hybrid e-bike. Upright position, easy to get on and off, electric help for coulee hills and wind, and suited to maintained pathways.
- Features to investigate: frame fit, reliable brakes, sensible tire width, a removable battery, realistic range for windy days, local dealer service, the bike’s actual weight, and a hitch carrier or loading ramp that can handle it.
- Reasonable alternative: a lightweight conventional hybrid. Lower cost, more exercise, and much easier to lift onto a car.
- The caveat: neither is the right answer until it’s been test ridden, on a hill, by the person who’ll ride it.
Expectations versus reality
These are the things new owners most often say they wish they’d known.
| Expectation | Reality | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| “It’s easy to ride, so it’ll be easy to handle.” | Some e-bikes are extremely heavy. A bike that feels effortless under power can be very hard to lift onto a rack, up steps or into a truck. | Lift it in the shop. Check the weight with and without the battery. |
| “The range is 80 km.” | Range can drop a great deal in wind, cold and hills. | Plan on a reserve. See the range example. |
| “The battery will last forever.” | Batteries lose capacity over time, and a replacement can be expensive. | Ask about battery price, availability and warranty before you buy. |
| “A cheap bike is a bargain.” | A low-cost bike may have parts that wear quickly, can’t be adjusted well, or can’t be replaced locally. | Compare what’s included and who will service it. |
| “Any shop can fix it.” | Not every bike shop supports every e-bike motor system. Some parts and software need the brand’s own dealer tools. | Ask which shops in Lethbridge can service this motor system. |
| “Suspension and fat tires mean comfort.” | They add weight and cost, and may not improve the kind of riding you actually do. | Match features to your surfaces. |
| “It felt comfortable in the shop.” | A bike that’s comfy for 10 minutes can become uncomfortable after an hour. | Take a longer test ride; ask about adjustments and saddle swaps. |
| “A rack is a small extra.” | A carrier rated for heavy e-bikes, plus a hitch if you don’t have one, can be a substantial added cost. | Price transport before you choose the bike. |
| “It’ll fit in the house.” | Large e-bikes, cargo bikes and trikes may not fit through doorways or turn in hallways and basements. | Measure doors, halls and storage first. |
| “Ten km is nothing.” | Ten km into a strong Lethbridge west wind can feel like 25. | Check the wind first. See riding in our wind. |
Owning a bike: purchase, 1, 3 and 5 years
The purchase price is only the start. Prices change too quickly to list here, and we haven’t found a trustworthy, current Canadian source for typical ownership costs, so this section lists what to budget for rather than dollar figures. Ask local shops for current prices on each item.
| When | Pedal bike | E-bike (in addition to pedal-bike items) |
|---|---|---|
| At purchase | The bike. A helmet, a good lock, front and rear lights, a bell, and a pump with a pressure gauge. Possibly fenders, a rack, panniers or a basket. A carrier for your vehicle, and a hitch if needed. Any fit adjustments, saddle or grip swaps. | The higher price of the bike. An e-bike-rated carrier and perhaps a loading ramp. A heavier lock (e-bikes are attractive to thieves). Possibly a second charger for the cabin or RV, and a smoke alarm where you’ll charge. |
| First year | The free or low-cost first check-up many shops offer after cables stretch and parts settle. Chain lube, tire pressure checks, perhaps a tube or two. | Brake pads wear faster on a heavy bike. Check for software updates at the first service. |
| By year three | A full tune-up or two. Likely a new chain, brake pads, perhaps cables and tires. Saddle or grips if worn. | Chains, cogs and pads more often, especially with a mid-drive motor. Tires rated for e-bikes. A check of electrical connectors and the battery’s condition. |
| By year five | Possibly new cogs and chainrings, wheels trued or rebuilt, suspension service if you have it. Helmet replacement (Parachute recommends replacing bike helmets after five years, or after any crash). | The battery will have lost some capacity. Depending on use and care, you may be pricing a replacement. Motor service or out-of-warranty repairs are possible. Check that parts and batteries for your model are still available. |
| Ongoing | Theft and damage coverage (check your home or tenant insurance). Your own time for cleaning and basic maintenance. | A small amount of electricity for charging. Battery recycling at end of life. |
What it means for you: when comparing two bikes, compare the five-year picture, not just the price tag. A bike with a standard battery and good local service can cost less to own than a cheaper one with neither. And a simple pedal bike, well cared for, can last for decades.
Resale
Conventional bikes from well-known makers resell readily. Specialist bikes like recumbents and trikes sell to a smaller market. E-bikes lose value partly with the age of the battery, so a buyer will ask how old it is and how it’s been stored. Keep your receipt, manual and service records.
Fit and comfort
The right type of bike in the wrong size is still the wrong bike. Fit is where much of the comfort comes from.
- Frame size. Makers size frames differently, so don’t rely on the number. Try the size the shop suggests, and one size either side if you’re in between.
- Standover. The City of Lethbridge Cycling Handbook suggests you should be able to stand over the top bar with both feet on the ground. Step-through frames make this easy.
- Saddle height. For efficient pedalling, your leg should be nearly straight at the bottom of the stroke. The same handbook suggests beginners set the saddle lower, so they can put their feet flat on the ground while seated, until they’re confident.
- Reach. You shouldn’t feel stretched out or cramped. Your elbows should be slightly bent.
- Handlebar height. Raising the bars takes weight off the hands and neck.
- Saddle. Width matters more than padding. Many shops will swap a saddle at purchase.
- Grips. Shaped grips spread pressure across the palm and can help with numb hands.
How to test ride well
A test ride is the most important step in this whole guide. Plan it, don’t just hop on in the parking lot.
- Shortlist two or three types using the questions and tools, and test at least two bikes, ideally of different types.
- Dress for riding and bring your helmet, and anything you’ll carry, such as a backpack.
- Get on and off several times, including on a slope. Then lift the bike, roll it backwards, and try lifting it to the height of your carrier or truck bed.
- Ride at least 20 to 30 minutes if you can, and include a hill, a tight turn, a curb cut and some rough pavement.
- Test the brakes from a moderate speed, and on a downhill.
- Shift through all the gears, including the lowest one on a climb.
- For e-bikes, start in the lowest assist level, then try each higher level in turn. Start from a stop on a hill, ride a bit with the assist off, and walk it with the battery off.
- Ride into the wind if the day allows. Notice how the bike feels in gusts.
- Afterwards, check in with your body. Hands, wrists, neck, back and saddle area. Any numbness or pain after 20 minutes will be worse after two hours.
- Take notes on the Buyer’s checklist before you forget which bike was which.
Can’t decide? Renting a bike for a day, especially an e-bike or a trike, tells you more than any number of short test rides. Ask whether any rental cost can go toward a purchase.
Where to buy: what to ask
We don’t recommend particular shops or brands. Whatever you buy and wherever you buy it, these questions help:
- Who will assemble and adjust the bike, and is a first check-up included?
- What’s the warranty on the frame, parts, motor and battery, and who handles claims locally?
- Which local shops can service this motor system and diagnose its faults?
- Are replacement batteries available, and roughly what do they cost today?
- Which safety standard is the e-bike certified to, and by which certification body?
- Can I adjust or swap the saddle, stem or grips for fit?
- What’s the return or exchange policy if it doesn’t fit?
Buying online or used? You give up the test ride and local setup. For a used e-bike, ask the battery’s age and how it was stored, check the charger matches, look for damage to the battery case, and avoid any battery that’s been modified or rebuilt. Check the serial number against stolen-bike registries before you pay.
Sources
- City of Lethbridge, Lethbridge Cycling Handbook, 1st edition (July 2020), bike sizing and saddle height: lethbridge.ca (PDF)
- Parachute (Canadian injury prevention charity), Helmets for bicycles, inline skating, scooter riding and skateboarding (replace after five years or a crash): parachute.ca
- Health Canada and Transport Canada, Misuse or modification of lithium-ion batteries in e-mobility devices can be extremely dangerous (2023): recalls-rappels.canada.ca
- No reliable, current Canadian source for typical ownership cost ranges was found, so none are given.